November 2013 Newsletter
Catalogue: Our catalogue of ship model fittings is still available. This is a handy reference guide to the various fittings that are available for your model ship.
Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/. We specialize in the nautical hobby. If you can’t find it, we can.
Model Ship Kit Manufacturers:
Cast Your Anchor will be representing some new manufacturers of model ship kits. These manufacturers are usually only available in Europe and very difficult to obtain in North America. The lines will be Model Slipways, Caldercraft, Deans Marine and Euro Model. Examples of the ship model kits that will be available are the Aziz Tug Boat, the Wyeforce Tug Boat, the Puffer, the HM Schooner Pickle, the Clyde Puffer, the Bulldog, the Inflexible and many many more. Stay tuned to our website!!
The Scottish Maid:
Back by popular demand, Artesania Latina’s Scottish Maid. Check it out.
Help Desk:
Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has established a new HELP DESK to provide our customers with answers to making your modeling experience enjoyable. The purpose of our help desk is to trouble shoot problems or provide guidance about products such as ship model tools, ship model kits, ship model books and of course, our favorite, ship model fittings and parts.
MacGyver: Let’s talk about tools for ship model building.
At Cast Your Anchor, we are keenly aware that enthusiasm for any hobby can wane after which the hobbyist is stuck with a bunch of expensive tools they no longer need. We try to convince the novice builders that they should spend as little as possible on tools and to try to “MacGyver” a solution for their building needs. Using a piece of plywood and some nails, you can create a template for rat lines or a jig for wood bending. Marettes are great for forming coils of rope. A small screw can be used as a clamp for attaching the bulkheads to the false keel.
If you “MacGyver” solutions for your build, let us know your secrets. We’ll pass on your techniques to the rest of our customers so that we can all learn from each other. Ok – they won’t remain secrets but we’re sure you’ll get a warm and fuzzy knowing that you have helped your fellow ship model builder.
Building the Bounty: DONE.
Lady Smith: Next up is the Lady Smith Yorkshire 1906 English Fishing Steamer by Constructo. I like this vessel because it represents the crossover from sail to steam. The Ladysmith was built at the Cochrane & Sons shipyard in Selby, Yorkshire in 1906. It had a steel hull and an alternating triple expansion steam engine capable of generating 69 bhp fed by a coal-fired tubular boiler producing steam at 180 psi and so enabling it to reach speeds of up to 12 knots. Trawler designs adapted as the way they were powered changed from sail to coal-fired steam by World War I.
You’ll notice that the Lady Smith had a steel hull. The kit provides for a wooden hull so my first challenge will be how to convert wood to steel – always a challenge
TIME TO START THAT NEW BUILD
Thursday, October 24, 2013
Friday, May 03, 2013
Ship Model Blocks
This article is intended for the ship model builder and keeps in mind what you will be given to work with in a ship model kit. It is not a dissertation on all blocks found on ships.
Simply put, a block in sailing, is a single or multiple pulley used as a lever to maneuver loads of rigging usually attached to fixed and running applications on a ship. In use one block is connected to a fixed surface. A rope or line is woven through the sheaves of that block, and maybe through one or more matching blocks at some far end to make up a tackle
This discussion will focus on blocks used to build model ships. Due to the size of a model ship, blocks that are used are generally representations of blocks -a fairly poor representation at best! However it is quite difficult to make accurate museum quality blocks. Also the types of blocks represented in kits are typically limited to common blocks, sister or violin blocks, heart and ramshead blocks. Other types of blocks, deadeyes, hearts and bull’s eyes will be touch upon.
Following is a general description of the construction of blocks used on ships.
The shell is the outside case of a block, and is made of ash, elm, or iron. In ship model kits, the shell is typically mad of walnut or boxwood. The shell could be made in one piece or assembled from several components -which was always made of wood until the middle of the 19th century. After this time the shell was occasionally made of metal. A block consists of a shell that is made in one piece or assembled from several components -which was always made of two until the middle of the 19th century. After this time the shell was made in one piece.
The shell contained a pulley, or sheave, over which the rope ran, and which rotated on a pin. The sheave is the wheel on which the rope travels, and is made of metal, lignum-vitae ( wood that has the extraordinary combination of strength, toughness and density), or iron. The Bouch is made of metal or leather, and is the centre piece of the sheave which travels on the pin. The Pin is made of iron or lignum-vitae, and has a head at one end : it passes through the centre of the shell, and the bouch of the sheave. In ship model kits, the sheave and pin are usually brass.
The crown and tail of a block are the ends of the shell ; the latter is easily known, as it has a much deeper score than the former to receive the splice of the strop, and in most cases the standing part, of the purchase. The Swallow is the open part between the sheave and shell.
The Score is the groove in the outside part of the shell to take the strops either single or double scores, according to what the blocks are required for. Double-scored are always double-stropped.
The size of a block is denoted by the length, and its classification by the flatness or thickness of the shell, the number of sheaves, the number of scores, and the quality of the stropping. A block, if one sheave, is called a single block ; two sheaves, a double block ; three sheaves, a treble , and so on, according to the number of sheaves. If one score, it is termed a single score block ; if two scores, a double scored block etc.
A block is supposed to carry a rope one-third its length in circumference: that is to say, a 3mm. block would carry a 1mm. rope, a 6mm block would carry a 2mm. rope etc. Blocks are designed for use with a certain size of rope. Therefore, they should never be used with rope of a larger size. Rope bent over a small sheave will be distorted, and any great strain applied will damage it and may even result in the rope wearing on the frame.
Determining the size of block to use with wire rope is impossible because of the factors involved. However, experience has shown that the diameter of a sheave should be at least 20 times the diameter of the wire rope. An exception to this is flexible wire for which smaller sheaves can be used because of their greater flexibility. The construction of the wire rope has a great deal to do with determining the minimum diameter of
sheaves to be used. The stiffer the wire rope, the larger the sheave diameter required.
Types of Blocks
Common Blocks
Are used for nearly all common purposes, reeving purchases, boats' tackles, gun tackles, etc., quarter blocks, span blocks for topmast studsail halyards, and peak brails, jewel blocks at the topsail and topgallant yard-arms for the studsail halyards, and in fact, for most of the running gear.
Sister Blocks
Sister blocks are tapered, the upper part of the block being smaller than the lower part, having a deep score, as they are seized between the foremost pair of shrouds in the topmast rigging ; they are thus constructed not to interfere with the spread of the rigging ; they are also two in one on end, the reef-tackle being rove through the upper, and the topsail lift through the lower sheave, they are sometimes fitted in separate pendants.
Ramshead Blocks
Ramshead blocks were used to raise and take down the lower yard in order to furl and unfurl the sails. The practice of moving the lower yard ended around 1660. The ramshead block allowed for a few feet of clearance when the yard was raised or lowered.
Upper Masthead Jeer Block
A jeer block is a double block, double-scored, stropped with two single strops, the four parts - or that is, the two parts of each strop - are seized together at the crown of the block, leaving two long bights or eyes, which are passed up through the after hole in the fore part of the top, and lashed on the after part of the mast head.
Every block on board a ship has a purpose. There are at least 10 other blocks not described in this article. However in most ship model kits, you’ll only find three or four types of blocks that are to represent all blocks.
A few words on specialty blocks. We’ll discuss dead eyes, hearts and bulls eyes in another article
Dead Eyes
Dead eyes are round, and made of elm; they have three holes at equal distances to take the lanyards of the rigging, and with a deep score, according to their size, round them to take the shroud. The size of a dead eye is denoted by the diameter. Dead eyes, intended for wire rigging, have a smaller score. Deadeyes are particularly used to fasten the rat lines to the hull.
Hearts
Hearts are another description of dead eyes, used for setting stays up, are turned in the end of stays, and seized in the fore stay collars on the bowsprit. Lower ones, for main or mizzen stays, are iron-bound. Like dead eyes, they are made of elm, something resembling a heart in shape, with one large hole through the centre ; in the largest heart there are four scores, and in the smallest three scores, for the lanyard to lay in. Round the outside is a rounded groove to take the stay.
Bull's-Eye
A bull’s eye is a wooden thimble, with a hole in the middle, rounded off at the edges, with a groove round the outside for a strop or seizing to lay in. They are generally seized to the lower shrouds in Merchant ships, to act as fair leader for the running rigging.
For the model ship builder, belaying pins can be turned out on the most basic of lathes from brass, bronze, or scrap hardwood… or better yet contact Cast Your Anchor at http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com or contact us at Cast Your Anchor 416-686-8529 for all your ship modeling needs.
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
TORONTO, ONTARIO – CAST YOUR ANCHOR announces the establishment of a new help desk.
Help Desk
Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has established a new HELP DESK to provide our customers with answers to making your modeling experience enjoyable. The purpose of our help desk is to trouble shoot problems or provide guidance about products such as ship model tools, ship model kits, ship model books and of course, our favorite, ship model fittings and parts.
We love answering questions. The principal use of questions is to elicit information from the person being addressed, by indicating, more or less precisely, the information which the speaker desires. However questions can also be used for a number of other purposes. We do have difficulty answering rhetorical or pre-suppositional questions but for the most part we should be able to impart wisdom on ship model building.
Our mandate has been to make the hobby of ship modeling an enjoyable experience for all builders. We don’t’ just sell product, we are model builders as well. Because we have tried all the tools and kits we are able to make informed recommendations. We are also very happy to share are building techniques with you.
Give our new website a test run.
Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/. We specialize in the nautical hobby. If you can’t find it, we can.
ABOUT CAST YOUR ANCHOR
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby store focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in Canada, we have experienced technicians to help answer any questions related to static or radio control model building.
For further information:
Wray Hodgson
Cast Your Anchor Inc.
416-686-8529
http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby facility focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in North America.
Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has established a new HELP DESK to provide our customers with answers to making your modeling experience enjoyable. The purpose of our help desk is to trouble shoot problems or provide guidance about products such as ship model tools, ship model kits, ship model books and of course, our favorite, ship model fittings and parts.
We love answering questions. The principal use of questions is to elicit information from the person being addressed, by indicating, more or less precisely, the information which the speaker desires. However questions can also be used for a number of other purposes. We do have difficulty answering rhetorical or pre-suppositional questions but for the most part we should be able to impart wisdom on ship model building.
Our mandate has been to make the hobby of ship modeling an enjoyable experience for all builders. We don’t’ just sell product, we are model builders as well. Because we have tried all the tools and kits we are able to make informed recommendations. We are also very happy to share are building techniques with you.
Give our new website a test run.
Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/. We specialize in the nautical hobby. If you can’t find it, we can.
ABOUT CAST YOUR ANCHOR
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby store focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in Canada, we have experienced technicians to help answer any questions related to static or radio control model building.
For further information:
Wray Hodgson
Cast Your Anchor Inc.
416-686-8529
http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby facility focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in North America.
BELAYING PINS FOP SHIP MODELS
Belaying pins have been used for centuries on square rigged ships as a means of securing running rigging. To examine the historical development of the belaying pin, we must study the development of the square rigger. Belaying pins are also known as belaying bitt, chess tree, kevel, cleat, riding bitt and belaying cleat.
Belaying pins were likely used in some fashion prior to the 14th century. The word first entered the English language sometime during the sixteenth century.
The period of most intense development of the sailing ship got underway with the use of the perpendicular square sail in the Mediterranean in the mid-14th Century. Until the 15th Century, the square-rigged ships mainly carried one mast with one sail. There had been examples of an additional mast raised above the aft castle as early as the late-14th Century, but not until the 15th Century did these installations become common. It was during the 15th Century that masts and sails were expanded on sailing vessels not just in numbers but also in size. As the rigging developed with more mast and sails, the size of the sailing vessel also increased. As the rigging became more complex it would be safe to assume the fitting elements used to control the sails would also become more widespread.
Cleats started to replace kevels with the advent of steam power in the 19th Century.
As hulls became more expansive however, this development affected the use of rigging and thus their sailing characteristics of the vessel. The towering castles made the ship top-heavy and more prone to topple in strong winds. The large superstructures also caused wind drag as the ship sailed, and could reduce the wind hitting the courses, or lower sails, i.e. the mainsail and foresail. The belaying bitt was an excellent tool that allowed speed and ease with which a line could be deployed, made fast, or released. When the pin is pulled, the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely.
A belaying pin is a solid wood or metal object used to secure lines of running rigging. They were made of hardwood, usually locust, and sometimes bronze, iron, or brass. Metal pins of the size needed would be massively heavy. Cast metal would not have been able to withstand the stress.
The size of the pin is directly related to the size of the ship as the diameter of a belaying pin was never less than the diameter of the rope which was to be belayed. As only one size of kevel was kept on board, its diameter was that of the thickest rope to be belayed. Pin shapes varied slightly but all had rounded ends (handles), most have shoulders on the upper portions and a slight taper to the shaft. The shaft is 2/3 of the length of the pin and ½ the thickness of the handle.
The shaft is inserted into a hole in various strategically located wooden pin rails (lining the inside of the bulwarks, surrounding the base of masts, or free-standing, called fife rails) up to the base of the handle. Short pin-rails, fastened to the standing rigging are called "pin-racks," and around the mast on deck, rectangular or u-shaped racks, called "fife-rails," are used to make fast and store halyards.
Advantages of a belaying pin are the coiling and storing of excess line. Hanging excess lines on these pins prevents moisture entrapment and the resulting dry rot. Another advantage is the speed and ease with which a line that is made fast, can be released. When the pin is pulled, (not really recommended though) the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely. Belaying pins provide increased friction to control a line. Pirates used these fittings as extra weapons on hand to knock out their victims.
A line is led under and behind the base of the pin then around the top in a Figure-8 pattern until at least four turns are complete. The lines are not tied or knotted, the last 'turn' is wedged between the top of the pin rail and the first turn with a firm yank on the 'tail' end of the line. The free line is then coiled and secured to the top of the belaying pin by taking the last foot or so of line (actual length depending on size of the coil) between the pin and coil and making a half twist which wraps through the coil and around the top of the pin.
If the line is to be hauled, one or more crew members will pull on the line above the pin. The crewmember providing the 'tail' will haul the line through the 'S' wrap on the pin and maintain tension. The friction of the 'S' wrap prevents the line from pulling back. When the line to be hauled on descends vertically to the pin the first turn can be left in place, so that the line comes down, round the back of the bottom of the pin, and then out across the deck
Lines under tension can be let out in a controlled manner by leaving the first turn on the pin to provide friction. Lines under very heavy load such as topsail halyards are equipped with short stopper lines attached near their pins. These are wound round the hauling line and held, to prevent it moving.
Excess line is coiled and stored neatly by taking a bight from the upper part of the final strand, looping it over and round beneath the coil, then twisting it once or more before slipping the twisted end over the top of the belaying pin to secure the coil in place.
For the model ship builder, belaying pins can be turned out on the most basic of lathes from brass, bronze, or scrap hardwood… or better yet contact Cast Your Anchor at Cast Your Anchor
or contact us at Cast Your Anchor 416-686-8529 for all your ship modeling needs.
Belaying pins were likely used in some fashion prior to the 14th century. The word first entered the English language sometime during the sixteenth century.
The period of most intense development of the sailing ship got underway with the use of the perpendicular square sail in the Mediterranean in the mid-14th Century. Until the 15th Century, the square-rigged ships mainly carried one mast with one sail. There had been examples of an additional mast raised above the aft castle as early as the late-14th Century, but not until the 15th Century did these installations become common. It was during the 15th Century that masts and sails were expanded on sailing vessels not just in numbers but also in size. As the rigging developed with more mast and sails, the size of the sailing vessel also increased. As the rigging became more complex it would be safe to assume the fitting elements used to control the sails would also become more widespread.
Cleats started to replace kevels with the advent of steam power in the 19th Century.
As hulls became more expansive however, this development affected the use of rigging and thus their sailing characteristics of the vessel. The towering castles made the ship top-heavy and more prone to topple in strong winds. The large superstructures also caused wind drag as the ship sailed, and could reduce the wind hitting the courses, or lower sails, i.e. the mainsail and foresail. The belaying bitt was an excellent tool that allowed speed and ease with which a line could be deployed, made fast, or released. When the pin is pulled, the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely.
A belaying pin is a solid wood or metal object used to secure lines of running rigging. They were made of hardwood, usually locust, and sometimes bronze, iron, or brass. Metal pins of the size needed would be massively heavy. Cast metal would not have been able to withstand the stress.
The size of the pin is directly related to the size of the ship as the diameter of a belaying pin was never less than the diameter of the rope which was to be belayed. As only one size of kevel was kept on board, its diameter was that of the thickest rope to be belayed. Pin shapes varied slightly but all had rounded ends (handles), most have shoulders on the upper portions and a slight taper to the shaft. The shaft is 2/3 of the length of the pin and ½ the thickness of the handle.
The shaft is inserted into a hole in various strategically located wooden pin rails (lining the inside of the bulwarks, surrounding the base of masts, or free-standing, called fife rails) up to the base of the handle. Short pin-rails, fastened to the standing rigging are called "pin-racks," and around the mast on deck, rectangular or u-shaped racks, called "fife-rails," are used to make fast and store halyards.
Advantages of a belaying pin are the coiling and storing of excess line. Hanging excess lines on these pins prevents moisture entrapment and the resulting dry rot. Another advantage is the speed and ease with which a line that is made fast, can be released. When the pin is pulled, (not really recommended though) the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely. Belaying pins provide increased friction to control a line. Pirates used these fittings as extra weapons on hand to knock out their victims.
A line is led under and behind the base of the pin then around the top in a Figure-8 pattern until at least four turns are complete. The lines are not tied or knotted, the last 'turn' is wedged between the top of the pin rail and the first turn with a firm yank on the 'tail' end of the line. The free line is then coiled and secured to the top of the belaying pin by taking the last foot or so of line (actual length depending on size of the coil) between the pin and coil and making a half twist which wraps through the coil and around the top of the pin.
If the line is to be hauled, one or more crew members will pull on the line above the pin. The crewmember providing the 'tail' will haul the line through the 'S' wrap on the pin and maintain tension. The friction of the 'S' wrap prevents the line from pulling back. When the line to be hauled on descends vertically to the pin the first turn can be left in place, so that the line comes down, round the back of the bottom of the pin, and then out across the deck
Lines under tension can be let out in a controlled manner by leaving the first turn on the pin to provide friction. Lines under very heavy load such as topsail halyards are equipped with short stopper lines attached near their pins. These are wound round the hauling line and held, to prevent it moving.
Excess line is coiled and stored neatly by taking a bight from the upper part of the final strand, looping it over and round beneath the coil, then twisting it once or more before slipping the twisted end over the top of the belaying pin to secure the coil in place.
For the model ship builder, belaying pins can be turned out on the most basic of lathes from brass, bronze, or scrap hardwood… or better yet contact Cast Your Anchor at
or contact us at Cast Your Anchor 416-686-8529 for all your ship modeling needs.
Monday, April 01, 2013
Cast Your Anchor New Line of Ship Model Fittings
- March 28, 2013 –
NEW MODERN SHIP MODEL FITTINGS
Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has released new modern ship model fittings. These parts are 1/48 scale and made of high quality resin.
Some of the New Parts are:
Nautilus Window Rings
Life Raft
Twin 5” Guns
Passing Scuttles
21” Torpedo
Shallow Floater Net Basket
Our mandate has been to make the hobby of ship modeling an enjoyable experience for all builders. We don’t’ just sell product, we are model builders as well. Because we have tried all the tools and kits we are able to make informed recommendations. We are also very happy to share are building techniques with you.
Give our new website a test run.
Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/. We specialize in the nautical hobby. If you can’t find it, we can.
ABOUT CAST YOUR ANCHOR
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby store focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in Canada, we have experienced technicians to help answer any questions related to static or radio control model building.
For further information:
Wray Hodgson
Cast Your Anchor Inc.
416-686-8529
http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby facility focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in North America.
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