tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-102458172024-03-13T16:58:06.930-04:00RatLines: All About Ship Models and Ship ModelingShip Models - Model Ships - Modeling Tools. All the information you need to build your masterpiece!Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.comBlogger87125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-32277988826381427912019-01-04T17:11:00.000-05:002019-01-04T17:20:38.467-05:00Wooden Barrels For Ship Model BoatsWooden barrels came into use around 800 BC and completely replaced clay pots by 2 BC. Wooden barrels (also called casks, tuns, kegs or hogsheads depending on the area of the world and the size of the container) were used to store food and wine or bulk goods like gold and coins and packed with some straw used as shipping containers for fragile items. The shape of the barrel allowed for ease of maneuverability in loading and unloading from ships. Barrels often have a convex shape, bulging at the middle. This constant bulge makes it relatively easy to roll a well-built wooden barrel on its side, changing directions with little friction. It also helps to distribute stress evenly in the material by making the container more spherical. <br><br/>
The parts of a barrel are: <br><br/>
1. Staves: 24 to 36 of the specially shaped board which that forms the body. Staves have to be planned smooth on the outside and slightly cupped inside. The bevel on their edges must be precise or they will neither fit together nor be waterproof. Also the tapering of each stave is critical to its fit. Staves were soaked so they could be curved properly. Some barrels were burned inside while others might be sealed with glue or pitch
2. Hoops: Early barrels were made with wooden hoops. Later they were fashioned from iron by a blacksmith. Several hoops are used to hold the barrel together. Each is driven onto the barrel with the Hoop Driver and a hammer. The hoop at the top of the barrel is known as a head hoop followed by the quarter hoop then the bilge hoop which is nearest the bulge or centre. This would repeat for the bottom half of the barrel.
3. Head: top or bottom of barrel generally made of several staves cut to size
4. Croze: groove about an inch and a half below the rim in which the head sits. The area between the top of the head and the end of the staves is known as the chime.
5. Bung hole: some barrels would have a bung hole in order to pour liquids. A stopper would be used to close the bung hole. <br><br/>
Ship building had long been the largest consumer of timber. During the 17th and !8th centuries, countries with large navies – wanting to be sure to that their nation could maintain its naval might – organized massive replanting projects. <br><br/>
Then during the 19th century, navies shifted to building ships out of metal. This change led to a glut of oak. Oak barrels remained utilitarian for centuries... but somewhere along the way, winemakers began to notice, and then exploit, the effect of barrel aging on their wines. This understanding really matured during the 19th century. <br><br/>
An easy way to produce a barrel is to take an existing barrel that is slightly smaller than the barrel you want to end up with and use the existing barrel as a jig. Use this form to prop up the staves, placing them all around the form and then draw a hoop down over the ends. Then turn the staves up the other way over the form and draw another hoop over that end.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLirbzdzEL0/XC_cLY78PyI/AAAAAAAAAE8/0T9a_OhNjXQEcHkEDqsW_JUylOACpqqvgCLcBGAs/s1600/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Barrels-30204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLirbzdzEL0/XC_cLY78PyI/AAAAAAAAAE8/0T9a_OhNjXQEcHkEDqsW_JUylOACpqqvgCLcBGAs/s320/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Barrels-30204.jpg" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="500" data-original-height="375" /></a></div>Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-16423421266863944192018-12-28T09:02:00.000-05:002019-01-04T17:18:00.873-05:00Belaying Pins for Model ShipsBelaying pins have been used for centuries on square rigged ships as a means of securing running rigging. To examine the historical development of the belaying pin, we must study the development of the square rigger. Belaying pins are also known as belaying bitt, chess tree, kevel, cleat, riding bitt and belaying cleat. <br><br/>
Belaying pins were likely used in some fashion prior to the 14th century. The word first entered the English language sometime during the sixteenth century. <br><br/>
The period of most intense development of the sailing ship got underway with the use of the perpendicular square sail in the Mediterranean in the mid-14th Century. Until the 15th Century, the square-rigged ships mainly carried one mast with one sail. There had been examples of an additional mast raised above the aft castle as early as the late-14th Century, but not until the 15th Century did these installations become common. It was during the 15th Century that masts and sails were expanded on sailing vessels not just in numbers but also in size. As the rigging developed with more mast and sails, the size of the sailing vessel also increased. As the rigging became more complex it would be safe to assume the fitting elements used to control the sails would also become more widespread. <br><br/>
Cleats started to replace kevels with the advent of steam power in the 19th Century. <br><br/>
As hulls became more expansive however, this development affected the use of rigging and thus their sailing characteristics of the vessel. The towering castles made the ship top-heavy and more prone to topple in strong winds. The large superstructures also caused wind drag as the ship sailed, and could reduce the wind hitting the courses, or lower sails, i.e. the mainsail and foresail. The belaying bitt was an excellent tool that allowed speed and ease with which a line could be deployed, made fast, or released. When the pin is pulled, the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely. <br><br/>
A belaying pin is a solid wood or metal object used to secure lines of running rigging. They were made of hardwood, usually locust, and sometimes bronze, iron, or brass. Metal pins of the size needed would be massively heavy. Cast metal would not have been able to withstand the stress. <br><br/>
The size of the pin is directly related to the size of the ship as the diameter of a belaying pin was never less than the diameter of the rope which was to be belayed. As only one size of kevel was kept on board, its diameter was that of the thickest rope to be belayed. Pin shapes varied slightly but all had rounded ends (handles), most have shoulders on the upper portions and a slight taper to the shaft. The shaft is 2/3 of the length of the pin and ½ the thickness of the handle. <br><br/>
The shaft is inserted into a hole in various strategically located wooden pin rails (lining the inside of the bulwarks, surrounding the base of masts, or free-standing, called fife rails) up to the base of the handle. Short pin-rails, fastened to the standing rigging are called "pin-racks," and around the mast on deck, rectangular or u-shaped racks, called "fife-rails," are used to make fast and store halyards. <br><br/>
Advantages of a belaying pin are the coiling and storing of excess line. Hanging excess lines on these pins prevents moisture entrapment and the resulting dry rot. Another advantage is the speed and ease with which a line that is made fast, can be released. When the pin is pulled, (not really recommended though) the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely. Belaying pins provide increased friction to control a line. Pirates used these fittings as extra weapons on hand to knock out their victims. <br><br/>
A line is led under and behind the base of the pin then around the top in a Figure-8 pattern until at least four turns are complete. The lines are not tied or knotted, the last 'turn' is wedged between the top of the pin rail and the first turn with a firm yank on the 'tail' end of the line. The free line is then coiled and secured to the top of the belaying pin by taking the last foot or so of line (actual length depending on size of the coil) between the pin and coil and making a half twist which wraps through the coil and around the top of the pin. <br><br/>
If the line is to be hauled, one or more crew members will pull on the line above the pin. The crew member providing the 'tail' will haul the line through the 'S' wrap on the pin and maintain tension. The friction of the 'S' wrap prevents the line from pulling back. When the line to be hauled on descends vertically to the pin the first turn can be left in place, so that the line comes down, round the back of the bottom of the pin, and then out across the deck. <br><br/>
Lines under tension can be let out in a controlled manner by leaving the first turn on the pin to provide friction. Lines under very heavy load such as topsail halyards are equipped with short stopper lines attached near their pins. These are wound round the hauling line and held, to prevent it moving. <br><br/>
Excess line is coiled and stored neatly by taking a bight from the upper part of the final strand, looping it over and round beneath the coil, then twisting it once or more before slipping the twisted end over the top of the belaying pin to secure the coil in place.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HLZbjggapw0/XCYsu_NJEFI/AAAAAAAAAEk/t9FYmAwQWo42GB52nTbgw5uEsPkIeSMdACLcBGAs/s1600/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Belaying%2BPin-30305C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HLZbjggapw0/XCYsu_NJEFI/AAAAAAAAAEk/t9FYmAwQWo42GB52nTbgw5uEsPkIeSMdACLcBGAs/s320/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Belaying%2BPin-30305C.jpg" width="320" height="210" data-original-width="143" data-original-height="94" /></a></div>Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-25545646102812775712018-12-21T17:24:00.000-05:002018-12-21T17:28:33.159-05:00Ship Model BellsSince the 15th century ship's bells have played both a practical and symbolic role in the life of naval vessels and their crews. All good ship models must have a bell on board. All really good ship models should also have an ornate belfry - depending on the era of the ship model.<br><br/>
There is documentary evidence that at least one English royal vessel, the Rodcogge de la Tour, 1414, had a brass bell "to mark the watches of the sailors". Other mentions of the shipboard bell were on the British ship Grace Dieu about 1485. Some ten years later an inventory of the English ship Regent reveals that this ship carried two watch bells. Originally the bell was fixed to a moveable beam which was activated by a lever or a wheel to which was attached a bell rope that dropped to the main-deck. That the bell rope was not attached directly to the bell clapper suggests that, in those early days, the ship's bell was not used to mark the passage of the hours and half-hours.<br><br/>
Long ago, time at sea was measured by the trickle of sand through a half - hour glass. The sand glass on the deck was usually next to a bell (ship’s strike), and the ship's boy (called a Grommet) was responsible for turning the glass over, and ringing the ship’s bell at the same time, so that the helmsman could make sure he turned his glass at exactly the same. <br><br/>
The ship’s bell had many uses; to indicate the time aboard the ship and hence to regulate the sailors' duty watches; for safety in foggy conditions; signaling; used in gunnery control; the Dutch Navy of the 17th century rang the bell as an order to open fire; as boat gongs indicating officers and dignitaries boarding or leaving the ship and one of the most memorable traditions for sailors and their families involves the use of ship's bells as baptismal fonts for shipboard christenings (the name of the baptized child would usually be engraved on the bell). <br><br/>
Prior to 1600 the bell would have been placed on the stern deck.The ship’s bell is usually located forward at the break of the forecastle on ship models prior to the 18th century then moved to the after end of the fore castle deck. The ship's cook (or his staff) traditionally has the job of shining the ship's bell. <br><br/>
Bells cast from metal were first developed in the Bronze Age. The ship’s bell is usually made of brass or bronze, bright finished on the outside only and normally has the ship's name and date of commission engraved or cast on it then filled in with black enamel. <br><br/>
The bell clapper and clapper pin are of a metal composition, with a suitable eye in the end for attaching the lanyard. There is a supporting eyebolt. The clapper of the ship’s bell would be supported by a bronze lug. <br><br/>
The ship modeler has the choice of making bells by turning from brass on a lathe, electro plating shell method or buying a prefabricated bell. <br><br/>
Same with the belfry. A belfry can be carved from wood, sculptured from metal or you can buy one premade. <br><br/>
On some vessels the bell assembly was hung from the belfry. On other vessels, the bell was hung on a curved iron post that was fastened to the deck. <br><br/>
The belfry is a structure enclosing a bell. Characteristically it is a small canopy or shelter supported on wooden brackets and often highly decorated with carvings and gold leaf. The first belfry that was documented was on English vessels around 1660.<br><br/>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4cnM-Tp1yOw/XB1nsWFtGTI/AAAAAAAAAEY/OPS2E53CKiwZRZPEVKBSkrlzaNcS-tIKgCLcBGAs/s1600/Ship%2BModels_Parts_Fittings_Cast%2BYour%2BAnchor-Belfrey-30402%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="1038" height="216" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4cnM-Tp1yOw/XB1nsWFtGTI/AAAAAAAAAEY/OPS2E53CKiwZRZPEVKBSkrlzaNcS-tIKgCLcBGAs/s320/Ship%2BModels_Parts_Fittings_Cast%2BYour%2BAnchor-Belfrey-30402%2B%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a>Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-38536880982565550602018-12-15T11:23:00.000-05:002018-12-15T11:40:53.171-05:00Ship Model BlocksThis article is intended for the ship model builder and keeps in mind what you will be given to work with in a ship model kit. It is not a dissertation on all blocks found on ships. Simply put, a block in sailing, is a single or multiple pulley used as a lever to maneuver loads of rigging usually attached to fixed and running applications on a ship. In use one block is connected to a fixed surface. A rope or line is woven through the sheaves of that block, and maybe through one or more matching blocks at some far end to make up a tackle.<br></br>
This discussion will focus on blocks used to build model ships. Due to the size of a model ship, blocks that are used are generally representations of blocks -a fairly poor representation at best! However it is quite difficult to make accurate museum quality blocks. Also the types of blocks represented in kits are typically limited to common blocks, sister or violin blocks, heart and ramshead blocks. Other types of blocks, deadeyes, hearts and bull’s eyes will be touch upon.<br></br>
Following is a general description of the construction of blocks used on ships. The shell is the outside case of a block, and is made of ash, elm, or iron. In ship model kits, the shell is typically made of walnut or boxwood. The shell could be made in one piece or assembled from several components -which was always made of wood until the middle of the 19th century. After this time the shell was occasionally made of metal.<br></br>
A block consists of a shell that is made in one piece or assembled from several components -which was always made of two until the middle of the 19th century. After this time the shell was made in one piece. The shell contained a pulley, or sheave, over which the rope ran, and which rotated on a pin.<br></br>
The sheave is the wheel on which the rope travels, and is made of metal, lignum-vitae (wood that has the extraordinary combination of strength, toughness and density), or iron. The Bouch is made of metal or leather, and is the centre piece of the sheave which travels on the pin. The Pin is made of iron or lignum-vitae, and has a head at one end: it passes through the centre of the shell, and the bouch of the sheave.<br></br>
In ship model kits, the sheave and pin are usually brass. The crown and tail of a block are the ends of the shell; the latter is easily known, as it has a much deeper score than the former to receive the splice of the strop, and in most cases the standing part, of the purchase. The Swallow is the open part between the sheave and shell. The Score is the groove in the outside part of the shell to take the strops either single or double scores, according to what the blocks are required for. Double-scored are always double-stropped. The size of a block is denoted by the length, and its classification by the flatness or thickness of the shell, the number of sheaves, the number of scores, and the quality of the stropping.<br></br>
A block, if one sheave, is called a single block; two sheaves, a double block; three sheaves, a treble, and so on, according to the number of sheaves. If one score, it is termed a single score block; if two scores, a double scored block etc.<br></br>
A block is supposed to carry a rope one-third its length in circumference: that is to say, a 3mm. block would carry a 1mm. rope, a 6mm block would carry a 2mm. rope etc. Blocks are designed for use with a certain size of rope. Therefore, they should never be used with rope of a larger size. Rope bent over a small sheave will be distorted, and any great strain applied will damage it and may even result in the rope wearing on the frame. Determining the size of block to use with wire rope is impossible because of the factors involved. However, experience has shown that the diameter of a sheave should be at least 20 times the diameter of the wire rope. An exception to this is flexible wire for which smaller sheaves can be used because of their greater flexibility. The construction of the wire rope has a great deal to do with determining the minimum diameter of sheaves to be used. The stiffer the wire rope, the larger the sheave diameter required.<br></br>
<b><u>Types of Blocks</b></u><br></br>
<b><u>Common Blocks</b></u><br> Common Blocks are used for nearly all common purposes, reeving purchases, boats' tackles, gun tackles, etc., quarter blocks, span blocks for topmast studsail halyards, and peak brails, jewel blocks at the topsail and topgallant yard-arms for the studsail halyards, and in fact, for most of the running gear.<br></br>
<b><u>Sister Blocks</b></u><br></br>
Sister blocks are tapered, the upper part of the block being smaller than the lower part, having a deep score, as they are seized between the foremost pair of shrouds in the topmast rigging ; they are thus constructed not to interfere with the spread of the rigging ; they are also two in one on end, the reef-tackle being rove through the upper, and the topsail lift through the lower sheave, they are sometimes fitted in separate pendants.<br></br>
<b><u>Ramshead Blocks</b></u><br></br>
Ramshead blocks were used to raise and take down the lower yard in order to furl and unfurl the sails. The practice of moving the lower yard ended around 1660. The ramshead block allowed for a few feet of clearance when the yard was raised or lowered.<br></br>
<b><u>Upper Masthead Jeer Block</b></u><br></br>
A jeer block is a double block, double-scored, stropped with two single strops, the four parts - or that is, the two parts of each strop - are seized together at the crown of the block, leaving two long bights or eyes, which are passed up through the after hole in the fore part of the top, and lashed on the after part of the mast head.<br></br>
<b><u>Dead Eyes</b></u><br></br>
Dead eyes are round, and made of elm; they have three holes at equal distances to take the lanyards of the rigging, and with a deep score, according to their size, round them to take the shroud. The size of a dead eye is denoted by the diameter. Dead eyes, intended for wire rigging, have a smaller score. Deadeyes are particularly used to fasten the rat lines to the hull. <br></br>
<b><u>Hearts</b></u><br></br>
Hearts are another description of dead eyes, used for setting stays up, are turned in the end of stays, and seized in the fore stay collars on the bowsprit. Lower ones, for main or mizzen stays, are iron-bound. Like dead eyes, they are made of elm, something resembling a heart in shape, with one large hole through the center; in the largest heart there are four scores, and in the smallest three scores, for the lanyard to lay in. Round the outside is a rounded groove to take the stay. <br></br>
<b><u>Bull's-Eye</b></u><br></br>
A bull’s eye is a wooden thimble, with a hole in the middle, rounded off at the edges, with a groove round the outside for a strop or seizing to lay in. They are generally seized to the lower shrouds in Merchant ships, to act as fair leader for the running rigging.<br></br>
Every block on board a ship has a purpose. There are at least 10 other blocks not described in this article. However in most ship model kits, you’ll only find three or four types of blocks that are to represent all blocks.<br></br>
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Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-57878667281481444072018-12-08T13:51:00.000-05:002018-12-08T13:52:18.393-05:00Chainplate Assemblies for Model ShipsOne of the more interesting assemblies on a ship model build is the chain-plate assembly.<br></br>
The chain-plate assemblies and deadeyes were part of the standing rigging of a sailing ship. These were for attaching the lower ends of the shrouds to the side of the ship. The shrouds were the ropes that steadied the masts and held them tightly into place. The ropes of the shrouds went through the holes in the deadeyes. This way they could be periodically tightened without letting up the strain on the masts. Conveniently enough, the shrouds provided a ladder of sorts, ratlines, enabling the sailors to climb to various levels of the masts. <br></br>
Plates were used by all countries in the early 17th century. Chains then became prevalent until the mid-17th century after which some countries like Britain reverted back to plates. Chain-plates get their name from the old wooden ships that used to use tarred manila or hemp rope in conjunction with dead eyes and lanyards to tension the rigging. Chain–plates could have one dead eye would be attached to the end of the stay while the other dead eye would be shackled to a chain or a link which would be connected to a plate that was fastened to the wales (hull). This plate was called the chain. <br></br>
By using chain-plates and other apparatus of rigging, sailboats are better able to support complex rigging systems and components. The weight of shrouds and other stays on a sailboat are spread across the hull, along the deck, and against framing components through the use of chain-plates and deadeyes. Several holes in the body of a chain-plate allow displacement among several bolts where the chain-plate is attached to the hull. <br></br>
Construction:<br></br>
A chain-plate is the thick iron plate bolted to the side of the ship to which the chains and deadeyes are attached. The chain plate and chains normally consisted of 5 parts, the lower deadeye and upper link, a middle link, a toe link, bolts, and a preventer link (or chain plate). The upper link surrounds the lower deadeye, the middle link connects to the upper link on the top and the toe link on the bottom. The toe link is connected to the preventer link. The preventer link was bolted to the outer planking. <br></br>
The lower dead eye has to be stropped with metal. The length of the loop of the metal on the bottom depends on if you are using plates or chains. Also consider that the channel or chain-wales are used to keep the assembly some distance off of the hull so make sure they are wide enough on your ship model. Interestingly the mizzen mast channel was quite rudimentary and many times did not even exist. If you are using chains, the loop should be long enough to go well below the lower side of the channel and act as the first link in the chain. If you are using plates, the loop just needs to be long enough to hang just below the channel and to allow the plate to hook into it. The ship modeler can form the strop using wire and starting from the bottom of the dead eye and moving up. Start off by creating the loop then fit the wire around the dead eye ending at the top. Drill two small holes in the top of the dead eye and run the ends of the wire into the holes. <br></br>
The lower deadeye can sit in a slot on the channel, directly on the channel or raised just above the channel depending on which era of ship model you are building. The first chain-plate should be perpendicular to the mast beginning from the bow end and moving towards the stern. The balance of chain-plates should be slightly angled as the assembly moves sternward. <br></br>
The ship modeler has a number of options when it comes to constructing chain-plate assemblies. Like usual keep in mind the era and nationality of the ship model you are building. If you choose to use a solid piece of metal, regardless of the shape there needs to be at least two holes, one above the other, in order to fasten it onto the wales. And don’t forget to simulate caulking around the bolt holes using drawing ink. The upper middle and toe links can be the same size or vary in length. Often the toe link will be the shortest.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4oGhYROTHcY/XAwSz6qldBI/AAAAAAAAAEA/ne7y3CzWjl8EVV-u26iYNDE0ho5opvbawCLcBGAs/s1600/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Chainplate-Assembly-31300C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4oGhYROTHcY/XAwSz6qldBI/AAAAAAAAAEA/ne7y3CzWjl8EVV-u26iYNDE0ho5opvbawCLcBGAs/s400/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Chainplate-Assembly-31300C.jpg" width="400" height="267" data-original-width="666" data-original-height="444" /></a></div>Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-75072837549499218522018-12-01T13:16:00.001-05:002018-12-01T13:17:08.818-05:00Ship Model PortholesIt’s generally believed that portholes first appeared in the vessel Henri-Grace-a-Dieu in 1515. Portholes were invented by a Frenchman and first put to use by the English during the realm of Henry VI (in the late fifteenth century). The invention of portholes gave the power of adding a second tier of guns and accordingly, the Henri-Grace-à-Dieu appears with two whole battery-decks, besides additional short decks, or platforms, both ahead and astern. It also allowed for larger sized cannon. <br></br>
Although the portholes were used to increase the cannon population on a ship especially on the forecastle and aft castle, it’s possible they were first used to accommodate rows of oars. Other than an opening to allow for cannons, portholes are also use to allow light into the lower decks of a ship as well as allow for air circulation. <br></br>
Before 1515 cannon were only mounted on the deck, which limited the number of guns a warship could carry. If you just had holes in the side of the ship, too much water would get in during heavy weather; it could fill up the ship with water, and also rust the iron cannons. Gun ports, were fitted with a storm cover for heavy weather and when the cannon were not in use. <br></br>
Portholes later came to mean any windows, round by custom, in the side of a ship. Portholes are also known as airports or side scuttles. Putting a round hole in something actually makes it stronger, while a square hole makes it weaker. The design of the porthole is such that it achieves its unassuming purposes without sacrificing the integrity of the ship's hull. The porthole's thick glass and rugged construction, tightly spaced fasteners, indeed even its round shape, all contribute to its purpose of maintaining hull strength and pressure of storm waves crashing against it. <br></br>
A porthole consists of at least three structural elements. In modern ships, the porthole is a circular glass disk encased in a metal frame, usually bronze or brass, that is bolted securely into the side of a ship's hull with a hinged storm cover. Sometimes the glass disk of a porthole is encased in a separate frame which is hinged onto the base frame so that it can be opened and closed. For model ship building, glass can be represented by clear plastic or by an opaque glaze. <br></br>
In earlier ships the portholes were square or rectangular consisting of a frame, hinged storm cover and sometimes an inner wooden shutter. <br></br>
The wood or metal storm covers can be securely fastened against the window when necessary. The main purpose of the hinged storm cover is to protect the opening from heavy seas. Older portholes can be identified by the protruding collar of their base plate which may be up to several inches deep, thus accommodating the thickness of a wooden hull. Always ensure that there is a storm cover on the portholes of your model ship.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gMCa3IVGB0M/XALPnSYwsdI/AAAAAAAAADs/V700t_kW_Wwdm-hxlrJN8hNKG3P1H1RvgCLcBGAs/s1600/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Airports-Portholes-33620D%2B%25285%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gMCa3IVGB0M/XALPnSYwsdI/AAAAAAAAADs/V700t_kW_Wwdm-hxlrJN8hNKG3P1H1RvgCLcBGAs/s320/Ship-Models-Parts-Fittings-Cast-Your-Anchor-Airports-Portholes-33620D%2B%25285%2529.jpg" width="235" height="320" data-original-width="219" data-original-height="298" /></a></div><a href="http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com"></a>Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-36036452444220738502018-11-19T21:00:00.000-05:002018-11-19T21:03:47.590-05:00Ship Model Lifeboat<p>Admiralty style ship models were built by ship builders from the 15th to the 19th century. They served as a design aid for the engineers, a simulator for those responsible for operating the vessel and as a “show and tell” display to be used for those raising funds from investors.</p>
An Admiralty ship model will have some parts of it un-planked exposing the framing and internal and deck furnishings. Usually masts, spars and some rigging are in place. The keel, stern post and stem are erected and the ribs are attached to the keel. This will then represent the general form of the hull. Some of the planks are then applied to the ribbed frame. In some Admiralty ship models the entire hull will be planked while only a portion of the deck will be planked. In other models, a side of the hull will be left un-planked while the deck is planked. Another version will have the entire hull un-planked while the deck is planked.
An Admiralty style ship model could also be a cross section of the hull. This is where all the planking is in place however the model would only represent part of the ship such as the bow, mid-section or stern. <br />
The advantage of building an Admiralty ship model to the ship model builder is that you can add detail to better represent the purpose and era of the ship. Using the Bounty as an example, representation can be made for the galley, armament room, carpentry shop, hold, captain’s quarters etc. The Bounty’s botanical mission was to pick up bread fruit plants so some plants can be added as well as an area that would have been used for the studying of plants and animals discovered along its journey. Prior to starting the ship model the builder should not only study the ship that is being represented but also the era in which the ship was built.
Ship building changed from century to century. More realism could be added like ballast placed in the hold prior to adding cargo. As an alternative to the standard plank on bulkhead that most ship model kits utilize, the builder can either convert the kit to a plank on frame or purchase one of the few plank on frame kits that are available. Exposed ribs can be fashioned using the bulkhead pieces as templates. Add reinforcement to the ribs between the decks by constructing beams.
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wd7o7eUl7MY/W_NqkKJYSbI/AAAAAAAAADg/BuXIwayGamARjieaa8YK7zoHGM5xc-2WwCLcBGAs/s1600/Cast%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="376" data-original-width="1000" height="120" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wd7o7eUl7MY/W_NqkKJYSbI/AAAAAAAAADg/BuXIwayGamARjieaa8YK7zoHGM5xc-2WwCLcBGAs/s320/Cast%2B1.jpg" width="320" /></a>
Some of the plank on frame kits that are available are the US Frigate Confederacy, Bounty, US Essex, America, Victory, USS Constitution and Santisimo Trinidad. Scratch building a plank on frame ship model is also possible. Ensure that you have good quality drawings and are familiar with how ships hulls are designed. If you do build a plank on frame model, you’ll probably achieve more satisfaction. The beauty of any ship model is the intricate detail. A plank on frame ship model allows you to provide detail not just on the upper deck but also on the decks below.Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-56386710958372517402018-11-18T13:08:00.002-05:002018-11-18T13:08:42.801-05:00Bluenose Model Ship by Cast Your AnchorDesigned by William Roué and built by Smith and Rhuland as a cod-fishing schooner and a racing ship, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian Fishing Schooner Delawana by the Gloucester Fishing Schooner Esperanto in 1920, the Bluenose was launched at Lunenburg, Nova Scotia on March 26, 1921. The race was sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper. After a season fishing on the Grand Banks, the Bluenose sailboat defeated Elsie (out of Gloucester, Massachusetts), returning the trophy to Nova Scotia.
During the next 17 years of racing, no challenger, American or Canadian, could wrest the International Fishermen’s Trophy from her. Fishing schooners became obsolete after World War II, and despite efforts to keep her in Nova Scotia, the undefeated Bluenose was sold to work as a freighter in the West Indies. She foundered on a Haitian reef on January 28, 1946. Her daughter, Bluenose II, was launched at Lunenburg on July 24, 1963, built to the original plans by many of the same workers.
Cast Your Anchor is the Bluenose II ship model specialist! We offer a number of different scales of the Bluenose I and II wooden ship model kits and even a plastic ship model kit. We carry Bluenose modeling books, drawings, posters, hats, and actual Bluenose II hull pieces and spikes.
The staff of Cast Your Anchor and the students in our workshops have built many of the wooden model kits and know this particular ship kit intimately. We are able to help the modeler with any questions concerning this famous Canadian schooner.<a href="https://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/"></a>Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-13775915119488025922013-10-24T12:16:00.001-04:002013-10-24T12:16:56.323-04:00November 2013 NewsletterNovember 2013 Newsletter <br />
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Catalogue: Our catalogue of ship model fittings is still available. This is a handy reference guide to the various fittings that are available for your model ship. <br />
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Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/. We specialize in the nautical hobby. If you can’t find it, we can. <br />
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Model Ship Kit Manufacturers:<br />
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Cast Your Anchor will be representing some new manufacturers of model ship kits. These manufacturers are usually only available in Europe and very difficult to obtain in North America. The lines will be Model Slipways, Caldercraft, Deans Marine and Euro Model. Examples of the ship model kits that will be available are the Aziz Tug Boat, the Wyeforce Tug Boat, the Puffer, the HM Schooner Pickle, the Clyde Puffer, the Bulldog, the Inflexible and many many more. Stay tuned to our website!!<br />
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The Scottish Maid:<br />
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Back by popular demand, Artesania Latina’s Scottish Maid. Check it out.<br />
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Help Desk: <br />
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Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has established a new HELP DESK to provide our customers with answers to making your modeling experience enjoyable. The purpose of our help desk is to trouble shoot problems or provide guidance about products such as ship model tools, ship model kits, ship model books and of course, our favorite, ship model fittings and parts. <br />
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MacGyver: Let’s talk about tools for ship model building. <br />
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At Cast Your Anchor, we are keenly aware that enthusiasm for any hobby can wane after which the hobbyist is stuck with a bunch of expensive tools they no longer need. We try to convince the novice builders that they should spend as little as possible on tools and to try to “MacGyver” a solution for their building needs. Using a piece of plywood and some nails, you can create a template for rat lines or a jig for wood bending. Marettes are great for forming coils of rope. A small screw can be used as a clamp for attaching the bulkheads to the false keel. <br />
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If you “MacGyver” solutions for your build, let us know your secrets. We’ll pass on your techniques to the rest of our customers so that we can all learn from each other. Ok – they won’t remain secrets but we’re sure you’ll get a warm and fuzzy knowing that you have helped your fellow ship model builder. <br />
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Building the Bounty: DONE. <br />
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Lady Smith: Next up is the Lady Smith Yorkshire 1906 English Fishing Steamer by Constructo. I like this vessel because it represents the crossover from sail to steam. The Ladysmith was built at the Cochrane & Sons shipyard in Selby, Yorkshire in 1906. It had a steel hull and an alternating triple expansion steam engine capable of generating 69 bhp fed by a coal-fired tubular boiler producing steam at 180 psi and so enabling it to reach speeds of up to 12 knots. Trawler designs adapted as the way they were powered changed from sail to coal-fired steam by World War I. <br />
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You’ll notice that the Lady Smith had a steel hull. The kit provides for a wooden hull so my first challenge will be how to convert wood to steel – always a challenge<br />
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TIME TO START THAT NEW BUILD<br />
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Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-36689728362757786642013-05-03T08:01:00.003-04:002013-05-03T08:01:44.151-04:00Ship Model Blocks This article is intended for the ship model builder and keeps in mind what you will be given to work with in a ship model kit. It is not a dissertation on all blocks found on ships.
Simply put, a block in sailing, is a single or multiple pulley used as a lever to maneuver loads of rigging usually attached to fixed and running applications on a ship. In use one block is connected to a fixed surface. A rope or line is woven through the sheaves of that block, and maybe through one or more matching blocks at some far end to make up a tackle
This discussion will focus on blocks used to build model ships. Due to the size of a model ship, blocks that are used are generally representations of blocks -a fairly poor representation at best! However it is quite difficult to make accurate museum quality blocks. Also the types of blocks represented in kits are typically limited to common blocks, sister or violin blocks, heart and ramshead blocks. Other types of blocks, deadeyes, hearts and bull’s eyes will be touch upon.
Following is a general description of the construction of blocks used on ships.
The shell is the outside case of a block, and is made of ash, elm, or iron. In ship model kits, the shell is typically mad of walnut or boxwood. The shell could be made in one piece or assembled from several components -which was always made of wood until the middle of the 19th century. After this time the shell was occasionally made of metal. A block consists of a shell that is made in one piece or assembled from several components -which was always made of two until the middle of the 19th century. After this time the shell was made in one piece.
The shell contained a pulley, or sheave, over which the rope ran, and which rotated on a pin. The sheave is the wheel on which the rope travels, and is made of metal, lignum-vitae ( wood that has the extraordinary combination of strength, toughness and density), or iron. The Bouch is made of metal or leather, and is the centre piece of the sheave which travels on the pin. The Pin is made of iron or lignum-vitae, and has a head at one end : it passes through the centre of the shell, and the bouch of the sheave. In ship model kits, the sheave and pin are usually brass.
The crown and tail of a block are the ends of the shell ; the latter is easily known, as it has a much deeper score than the former to receive the splice of the strop, and in most cases the standing part, of the purchase. The Swallow is the open part between the sheave and shell.
The Score is the groove in the outside part of the shell to take the strops either single or double scores, according to what the blocks are required for. Double-scored are always double-stropped.
The size of a block is denoted by the length, and its classification by the flatness or thickness of the shell, the number of sheaves, the number of scores, and the quality of the stropping. A block, if one sheave, is called a single block ; two sheaves, a double block ; three sheaves, a treble , and so on, according to the number of sheaves. If one score, it is termed a single score block ; if two scores, a double scored block etc.
A block is supposed to carry a rope one-third its length in circumference: that is to say, a 3mm. block would carry a 1mm. rope, a 6mm block would carry a 2mm. rope etc. Blocks are designed for use with a certain size of rope. Therefore, they should never be used with rope of a larger size. Rope bent over a small sheave will be distorted, and any great strain applied will damage it and may even result in the rope wearing on the frame.
Determining the size of block to use with wire rope is impossible because of the factors involved. However, experience has shown that the diameter of a sheave should be at least 20 times the diameter of the wire rope. An exception to this is flexible wire for which smaller sheaves can be used because of their greater flexibility. The construction of the wire rope has a great deal to do with determining the minimum diameter of
sheaves to be used. The stiffer the wire rope, the larger the sheave diameter required.
Types of Blocks
Common Blocks
Are used for nearly all common purposes, reeving purchases, boats' tackles, gun tackles, etc., quarter blocks, span blocks for topmast studsail halyards, and peak brails, jewel blocks at the topsail and topgallant yard-arms for the studsail halyards, and in fact, for most of the running gear.
Sister Blocks
Sister blocks are tapered, the upper part of the block being smaller than the lower part, having a deep score, as they are seized between the foremost pair of shrouds in the topmast rigging ; they are thus constructed not to interfere with the spread of the rigging ; they are also two in one on end, the reef-tackle being rove through the upper, and the topsail lift through the lower sheave, they are sometimes fitted in separate pendants.
Ramshead Blocks
Ramshead blocks were used to raise and take down the lower yard in order to furl and unfurl the sails. The practice of moving the lower yard ended around 1660. The ramshead block allowed for a few feet of clearance when the yard was raised or lowered.
Upper Masthead Jeer Block
A jeer block is a double block, double-scored, stropped with two single strops, the four parts - or that is, the two parts of each strop - are seized together at the crown of the block, leaving two long bights or eyes, which are passed up through the after hole in the fore part of the top, and lashed on the after part of the mast head.
Every block on board a ship has a purpose. There are at least 10 other blocks not described in this article. However in most ship model kits, you’ll only find three or four types of blocks that are to represent all blocks.
A few words on specialty blocks. We’ll discuss dead eyes, hearts and bulls eyes in another article
Dead Eyes
Dead eyes are round, and made of elm; they have three holes at equal distances to take the lanyards of the rigging, and with a deep score, according to their size, round them to take the shroud. The size of a dead eye is denoted by the diameter. Dead eyes, intended for wire rigging, have a smaller score. Deadeyes are particularly used to fasten the rat lines to the hull.
Hearts
Hearts are another description of dead eyes, used for setting stays up, are turned in the end of stays, and seized in the fore stay collars on the bowsprit. Lower ones, for main or mizzen stays, are iron-bound. Like dead eyes, they are made of elm, something resembling a heart in shape, with one large hole through the centre ; in the largest heart there are four scores, and in the smallest three scores, for the lanyard to lay in. Round the outside is a rounded groove to take the stay.
Bull's-Eye
A bull’s eye is a wooden thimble, with a hole in the middle, rounded off at the edges, with a groove round the outside for a strop or seizing to lay in. They are generally seized to the lower shrouds in Merchant ships, to act as fair leader for the running rigging.
For the model ship builder, belaying pins can be turned out on the most basic of lathes from brass, bronze, or scrap hardwood… or better yet contact Cast Your Anchor at http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com or contact us at Cast Your Anchor 416-686-8529 for all your ship modeling needs.
Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-55005484944177736222013-04-30T15:48:00.001-04:002013-04-30T15:48:15.207-04:00TORONTO, ONTARIO – CAST YOUR ANCHOR announces the establishment of a new help desk.Help Desk <br />
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Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has established a new HELP DESK to provide our customers with answers to making your modeling experience enjoyable. The purpose of our help desk is to trouble shoot problems or provide guidance about products such as ship model tools, ship model kits, ship model books and of course, our favorite, ship model fittings and parts. <br />
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We love answering questions. The principal use of questions is to elicit information from the person being addressed, by indicating, more or less precisely, the information which the speaker desires. However questions can also be used for a number of other purposes. We do have difficulty answering rhetorical or pre-suppositional questions but for the most part we should be able to impart wisdom on ship model building. <br />
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Our mandate has been to make the hobby of ship modeling an enjoyable experience for all builders. We don’t’ just sell product, we are model builders as well. Because we have tried all the tools and kits we are able to make informed recommendations. We are also very happy to share are building techniques with you. <br />
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Give our new website a test run.<br />
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Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/. We specialize in the nautical hobby. If you can’t find it, we can. <br />
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ABOUT CAST YOUR ANCHOR<br />
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CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby store focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in Canada, we have experienced technicians to help answer any questions related to static or radio control model building.<br />
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For further information:<br />
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Wray Hodgson<br />
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Cast Your Anchor Inc.<br />
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416-686-8529 <br />
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http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com<br />
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CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby facility focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in North America.<br />
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Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-76694061617019952352013-04-30T15:32:00.001-04:002013-04-30T15:32:25.222-04:00BELAYING PINS FOP SHIP MODELSBelaying pins have been used for centuries on square rigged ships as a means of securing running rigging. To examine the historical development of the belaying pin, we must study the development of the square rigger. Belaying pins are also known as belaying bitt, chess tree, kevel, cleat, riding bitt and belaying cleat. <br />
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Belaying pins were likely used in some fashion prior to the 14th century. The word first entered the English language sometime during the sixteenth century.<br />
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The period of most intense development of the sailing ship got underway with the use of the perpendicular square sail in the Mediterranean in the mid-14th Century. Until the 15th Century, the square-rigged ships mainly carried one mast with one sail. There had been examples of an additional mast raised above the aft castle as early as the late-14th Century, but not until the 15th Century did these installations become common. It was during the 15th Century that masts and sails were expanded on sailing vessels not just in numbers but also in size. As the rigging developed with more mast and sails, the size of the sailing vessel also increased. As the rigging became more complex it would be safe to assume the fitting elements used to control the sails would also become more widespread. <br />
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Cleats started to replace kevels with the advent of steam power in the 19th Century.<br />
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As hulls became more expansive however, this development affected the use of rigging and thus their sailing characteristics of the vessel. The towering castles made the ship top-heavy and more prone to topple in strong winds. The large superstructures also caused wind drag as the ship sailed, and could reduce the wind hitting the courses, or lower sails, i.e. the mainsail and foresail. The belaying bitt was an excellent tool that allowed speed and ease with which a line could be deployed, made fast, or released. When the pin is pulled, the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely.<br />
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A belaying pin is a solid wood or metal object used to secure lines of running rigging. They were made of hardwood, usually locust, and sometimes bronze, iron, or brass. Metal pins of the size needed would be massively heavy. Cast metal would not have been able to withstand the stress. <br />
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The size of the pin is directly related to the size of the ship as the diameter of a belaying pin was never less than the diameter of the rope which was to be belayed. As only one size of kevel was kept on board, its diameter was that of the thickest rope to be belayed. Pin shapes varied slightly but all had rounded ends (handles), most have shoulders on the upper portions and a slight taper to the shaft. The shaft is 2/3 of the length of the pin and ½ the thickness of the handle. <br />
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The shaft is inserted into a hole in various strategically located wooden pin rails (lining the inside of the bulwarks, surrounding the base of masts, or free-standing, called fife rails) up to the base of the handle. Short pin-rails, fastened to the standing rigging are called "pin-racks," and around the mast on deck, rectangular or u-shaped racks, called "fife-rails," are used to make fast and store halyards. <br />
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Advantages of a belaying pin are the coiling and storing of excess line. Hanging excess lines on these pins prevents moisture entrapment and the resulting dry rot. Another advantage is the speed and ease with which a line that is made fast, can be released. When the pin is pulled, (not really recommended though) the line falls to the deck in an untangled flaked-out pattern, ready to run freely. Belaying pins provide increased friction to control a line. Pirates used these fittings as extra weapons on hand to knock out their victims.<br />
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A line is led under and behind the base of the pin then around the top in a Figure-8 pattern until at least four turns are complete. The lines are not tied or knotted, the last 'turn' is wedged between the top of the pin rail and the first turn with a firm yank on the 'tail' end of the line. The free line is then coiled and secured to the top of the belaying pin by taking the last foot or so of line (actual length depending on size of the coil) between the pin and coil and making a half twist which wraps through the coil and around the top of the pin. <br />
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If the line is to be hauled, one or more crew members will pull on the line above the pin. The crewmember providing the 'tail' will haul the line through the 'S' wrap on the pin and maintain tension. The friction of the 'S' wrap prevents the line from pulling back. When the line to be hauled on descends vertically to the pin the first turn can be left in place, so that the line comes down, round the back of the bottom of the pin, and then out across the deck<br />
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Lines under tension can be let out in a controlled manner by leaving the first turn on the pin to provide friction. Lines under very heavy load such as topsail halyards are equipped with short stopper lines attached near their pins. These are wound round the hauling line and held, to prevent it moving.<br />
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Excess line is coiled and stored neatly by taking a bight from the upper part of the final strand, looping it over and round beneath the coil, then twisting it once or more before slipping the twisted end over the top of the belaying pin to secure the coil in place.<br />
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For the model ship builder, belaying pins can be turned out on the most basic of lathes from brass, bronze, or scrap hardwood… or better yet contact Cast Your Anchor at <ahref castyouranchorhobby.com="" http:=""> Cast Your Anchor</ahref><br />
or contact us at Cast Your Anchor 416-686-8529 for all your ship modeling needs. <br />
Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-54045317169810744052013-04-01T11:52:00.001-04:002013-04-01T11:52:35.442-04:00Cast Your Anchor New Line of Ship Model Fittings- March 28, 2013 –
NEW MODERN SHIP MODEL FITTINGS
Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has released new modern ship model fittings. These parts are 1/48 scale and made of high quality resin.
Some of the New Parts are:
Nautilus Window Rings
Life Raft
Twin 5” Guns
Passing Scuttles
21” Torpedo
Shallow Floater Net Basket
Our mandate has been to make the hobby of ship modeling an enjoyable experience for all builders. We don’t’ just sell product, we are model builders as well. Because we have tried all the tools and kits we are able to make informed recommendations. We are also very happy to share are building techniques with you.
Give our new website a test run.
Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com/. We specialize in the nautical hobby. If you can’t find it, we can.
ABOUT CAST YOUR ANCHOR
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby store focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in Canada, we have experienced technicians to help answer any questions related to static or radio control model building.
For further information:
Wray Hodgson
Cast Your Anchor Inc.
416-686-8529
http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby facility focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in North America.
Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-76131475463459824562012-12-14T09:55:00.003-05:002012-12-14T09:55:51.999-05:00Selecting an Anchor for Your Ship Model Selecting an Anchor for Your Ship Model
Anchors
The first anchors were probably made of stone. The disk-shaped stones had at least one hole in the middle, to attach the line, and the stone anchors probably could serve as ballast as well. Stone anchors have been used in parts of the world until historical times. In Roman times, in the Mediterranean, ship anchors were made of either lead and wood, or entirely of iron.
After Antiquity, European anchors are mostly made of iron, often with a wooden stock. From the 19th century, the stock was made of iron instead of wood. Also, the anchor rope was replaced by the anchor chain
Anchors should be selected by the era in which the ship was in service. In an earlier article, we spoke of needing to decide early on in the ship model build how you will be displaying the model. All fittings including the anchor should be displayed in conjunction with how the ship is cast i.e. in port, running at sea, in harbor or in battle.
The anchor should be attached to your ship model by running a piece of chain through the shackle. A length of rope is then attached to the chain and attached to the windlass. There are many ways of running the rope through the ship to the windlass. There should also be a line attached to the crown that’s used as a trip line to free the anchor form the bottom of the sea should it become entangled.
Cast Your Anchor has a large selection of different types of anchors used through the ages.
Depending on the size of the ship 3 to 10 anchors and their cables made up the vessels ground tackle. Warship carried an anchor at each side of the bow, and two or more lashed to the channels.
Parts of an Anchor
Before we examine various types of anchors, we should become familiar with the parts of an anchor. Any anchor consists of the ring (shackle), shank, stock, arms, crown and the fluke or palm.
The Ring, or Shackle is attached to the upper part of the shank, to which the cable or chain is attached.
The Shank is the perpendicular or middle piece of an anchor.
The Stock is made of wood or iron ; if iron, it reeves through the lower hole in the upper end of the shank ; if wood, it is built round the shank, at the same place, and hooped and bolted together ; it stands at right angles to the arms, and being much longer, cants the anchor with one fluke down, which causes it to hook to the ground.
Arms are the two triangular pieces at the lower end of the shank, forming hooks, one of which is always hooked or buried in the ground when the anchor is let go, so as to hold the ship in a stationary position. The extreme end of the arm is referred to the bill or pee.
The Crown is the lower end of the shank, where the arms or flukes are joined.
The Fluke or Palm is the broad triangular piece within the extreme end or bill of the arms. It is so constructed as to have a greater hold of the ground.
Bower and Sheet Anchor
The bower anchor was used primarily for anchoring the ship. The largest one, called the "best bower" was carried from the cathead at the starboard bow. A sheet anchor is a spare bower.
Spanish Anchor
The Spanish Anchor is typical of seventeenth to eighteenth century anchors. The general form associated with this time period has a classic arrow shape with a long shank, angular arms, and a wooden stock.
Early 18th Century Anchor
This kind of anchor was used on British ships, characterized by a straight shank with two arched arms ending in leaf-shaped flukes.At one end of the shank there are two arms, carrying the flukes, while the stock is mounted to the other end, at ninety degrees to the arms. When the anchor lands on the bottom, it will generally fall over with the arms parallel to the seabed. As a strain comes onto the rode, the stock will dig into the bottom, canting the anchor until one of the flukes catches and digs into the bottom.
Kedge Anchor
In yachts, a kedge anchor is an anchor carried in addition to the main, or bower anchors, and usually stowed aft. Every yacht should carry at least two anchors – the main or bower anchor and a second lighter kedge anchor. It is used occasionally when it is necessary to limit the turning circle as the yacht swings when it is anchored, such as in a very narrow river or a deep pool in an otherwise shallow area.
For ships, a kedge may be dropped while a ship is underway, or carried out in a suitable direction by a tender or ship's boat to enable the ship to be winched off if aground or swung into a particular heading, or even to be held steady against a tidal or other stream.
Historically, it was of particular relevance to sailing warships which used them to outmaneuver opponents when the wind had dropped but might be used by any vessel in confined, shoal water to place it in a more desirable position, provided she had enough manpower.
Grapnel Anchor
Used to drag the bottom for lost objects, and to anchor small boats. A traditional design, the grapnel is merely a shank with four or more tines. It has a benefit in that, no matter how it reaches the bottom, one or more tines will be aimed to set. In coral it is often able to set quickly by hooking into the structure, but may be more difficult to retrieve.
Grapnels rarely have enough fluke area to develop much hold in sand, clay, or mud. It is not unknown for the anchor to foul on its own rode, or to foul the tines with refuse from the bottom, preventing it from digging in. On the other hand, it is quite possible for this anchor to find such a good hook that, without a trip line from the crown, it is impossible to retrieve.
Danforth Anchor
A lightweight burying type of anchor with a high holding power to weight ratio. Works best in sandy, muddy or clay bottoms. It uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat triangular flukes are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom (and on some designs may be adjusted for an optimal angle depending on the bottom type). Tripping palms at the crown act to tip the flukes into the seabed. The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop high resistance. Its light weight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store.
The fluke anchor has difficulty penetrating kelp- and weed-covered bottoms, as well as rocky and particularly hard sand or clay bottoms. If there is much current, or the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor, it may "kite" or "skate" over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a sail or wing. Once set, the anchor tends to break out and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset but instead drag.
Navy Anchor
A heavy ship’s anchor with large flukes and no stock so that the shank can be drawn through the hawshole. The enormous weight of these anchors make them inappropriate for a small vessel.
Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-49656946406390088872012-11-27T07:41:00.000-05:002012-11-27T07:41:50.358-05:00December 2012 NewsletterWelcome to RatLines!
WEB SITE: Visit our new website at www.castyouranchorhobby.com. The new website has clearer pictures, is more searchable and has features that we will be adding overtime. It might sound like fun updating a website but trust us – it wasn’t. We offer information directed solely for model ship builders. You’ll find useful tips, a wide variety of kits, tools & parts for all your shipbuilding needs. What comes after the foghorn?
Bounty: Progressing. Got interrupted by the website update. Year three is starting off by building the masts and yards. This is the part I like best. When I’m rigging I feel a bit like a surgeon. Good news is that if I make a slip I don’t kill the patient. I make a lot of slips so I guess I’ll stick with model ships and pass on human bodies!
Membership Site. We’re looking at establishing a site for our customers to be able to interact with. In addition to the usual FAQs, Classifieds and build logs, we’ll be adding interesting sections on how to bring your model to life through videos and pictures. Check out this site for an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAWwecrobv4
Another idea is to provide slides of detailed building of parts. It’s almost impossible to watch a video while you’re building and one picture is usually not enough so multiple pictures that you can hang in your workshop could be very useful. More information to come.
Fittings Catalogue: Don’t’ forget we can send you a printed copy of our Ship Model Fittings Catalogue. Just contact us!!!
Speaking About Santa: Cast Your Anchor is has been gearing up for the big event. Let’s face it, there’s going to be snow here soon. What better way to hibernate inside this winter by building your dream ship. Cast Your Anchor is well stocked right now. We look forward to hearing you.
Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-72864056303683777652012-06-18T09:20:00.001-04:002012-06-18T09:20:36.153-04:00ADMIRALTY STYLE SHIP MODELSAdmiralty style ship models were built by ship builders from the 15th to the 19th century. They served as a design aid for the engineers, a simulator for those responsible for operating the vessel and as a “show and tell” display to be used for those raising funds from investors.
An Admiralty ship model will have some parts of it un-planked exposing the framing and internal and deck furnishings. Usually masts, spars and some rigging are in place. The keel, stern post and stem are erected and the ribs are attached to the keel. This will then represent the general form of the hull. Some of the planks are then applied to the ribbed frame. In some Admiralty ship models the entire hull will be planked while only a portion of the deck will be planked. In other models, a side of the hull will be left un-planked while the deck is planked. Another version will have the entire hull un-planked while the deck is planked. An Admiralty style ship model could also be a cross section of the hull. This is where all the planking is in place however the model would only represent part of the ship such as the bow, mid section or stern.
The advantage of building an Admiralty ship model to the ship model builder is that you can add detail to better represent the purpose and era of the ship. Using the Bounty as an example, representation can be made for the galley, armament room, carpentry shop, hold, captains quarters etc . The Bounty’s botanical mission was to pick up bread fruit plants so some plants can be added as well as an area that would have been used for the studying of plants and animals discovered along its journey. Prior to starting the ship model the builder should not only study the ship that is being represented but also the era in which the ship was built. Ship building changed from century to century. More realism could be added like ballast placed in the hold prior to adding cargo.
As an alternative to the standard plank on bulkhead that most ship model kits utilize, the builder can either convert the kit to a plank on frame or purchase one of the few plank on frame kits that are available. Exposed ribs can be fashioned using the bulkhead pieces as templates. Add reinforcement to the ribs between the decks by constructing beams. Some of the plank on frame kits that are available are the US Frigate Confederacy, Bounty, US Essex, America, Victory, USS Constitution and Santisimo Trinidad.
Scratch building a plank on frame ship model is also possible. Ensure that you have good quality drawings and are familiar with how ships hulls are designed.
If you do build a plank on frame model, you’ll probably achieve more satisfaction. The beauty of any ship model is the intricate detail. A plank on frame ship model allows you to provide detail not just on the upper deck but also on the decks below.Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-12546240162659544342012-06-07T16:17:00.002-04:002012-06-07T16:17:44.866-04:00Ship Model Fittings CatalogueCast Your Anchor Ship Model Fittings Catalogue
TORONTO, ONTARIO – CAST YOUR ANCHOR announces it has published a ship model fittings catalogue to be able to better serve our customers.
Cast Your Anchor, Canada’s only nautical hobby store specializing in ship models has published an industry first ship model fittings catalogue. This catalogue has been designed to give our customers an ability to view the entire range of ship models fittings that are available. Once a selection is made, the customer is able to view more product detail on line.
The advantages to our customers of a printed catalogue are that no technical savvy is required, you can mail in the order form and pay by cheque or you can shop when its convenient to you to make a phone call. The customer is also not tied to a single location – computer - when he wants to look for fittings for his ship model. We find that a printed catalogue helps our customers to better visualize a specific ship model fitting prior to making a decision to buy.
In addition to the ship model fittings there is a small section on selected specific ship modeling tools. There are many tools available but the ones in our catalogue are the tools used by our in house modelers. They are tried and tested and fall into the requirement of a tool that is reliable, well ma de and makes ship model building trouble – free.
Our mandate has been to make the hobby of ship modeling an enjoyable experience for all builders. We don’t’ just sell product, we are model builders as well. Because we have tried all the tools and kits we are able to make informed recommendations. We are also very happy to share are building techniques with you.
Check out Cast Your Anchor’s website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com. Our only business is ship model building.
ABOUT CAST YOUR ANCHOR
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby store focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying a large inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings we have experienced technicians to help answer any questions related to static or radio control model building.
For further information:
Wray Hodgson
Cast Your Anchor Inc.
416-686-8529
http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com
CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby facility focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying one of the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings in North America.Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-50128107091660203322012-06-07T16:11:00.001-04:002012-06-07T16:11:41.045-04:00June 2012 NewsletterJune 2012 NEWSLETTER
We hope everyone had a terrific un-winter like winter season and your model building went well.
We’ve been very busy at Cast Your Anchor!
Catalogue:
Cast Your Anchor has published its first printed catalogue. We have added model ship building specialty tools to our fittings catalogue and can now send this catalogue to you either through the post office or electronically to your computer. Send an email to castyouranchor@bellnet.ca and we’ll get a catalogue out to you right away.
Fittings:
Cast Your Anchor continually adds different fittings to its arsenal of model ship parts. Check with us often to see what’s new. We have also changed how our fittings categories are displayed on our website making it much faster to select the right part. We are also offering to purchase unused fittings from all of our customers. Contact us if you would like to sell your excess fittings.
Running on Empty:
Our in-store display case is empty. If you would like your work of art to be admired by your fellow modelers or if you would like to offer your model for sale, give us a call and we’ll see if your master piece will fit into the case.
Bounty Build:
You all are probably wondering how progress is going on the Bounty model I’m building. Not only do I continually spend time ripping apart and rebuilding certain things on the model, I am also obsessed with adding detail to the inside decks. I must say that the Artesania kit certainly allows for imaginative detail and artistic license. This is what this model is all about – a feast for the eye! I want whoever sees it to keep discovering new details as they admire my handiwork. I have revised my timeline to completion to 2014 – good thing I’m not in any rush.
Specials
We have managed to make some really good buys on fittings in recent months. Check out our specials page often because we’ll be adding the parts as they arrive at our door. And when they’re gone – they’re gone.
Gifts
Our buyer has been busy over the winter. Check out the new products on our Gift site www.castyouracnhor.ca. We have new pre-built models, a line of bells and nautical instruments and a few interesting odds and ends.
Cast Your Anchor hopes that you have an enjoyable and safe summer.Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-5062461872640449632011-09-19T12:37:00.000-04:002011-09-19T12:38:14.899-04:00September / October 2011 NewsletterSEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2011 NEWSLETTER<br />We hope everyone had a terrific summer. Unfortunately it’s time to start battening down the hatches in preparation for the impending winter. <br />Fittings:<br />Cast Your Anchor continues to search for value for our customers. Stay tuned for remarkable pricing on some ship model fittings. Check out our stock of ship model parts and accessories. We have over 5000 fittings in stock covering historical and modern eras.<br />Articles:<br />Did you know that we write articles concerning ship model buildings? Here’s an excerpt from the last article entitled “The Retired Model Ship Builder”<br />How to Make Model Ship Building Safe<br />It is important to observe some rules to make sure that your model ship building hobby is safe. As such you should ensure that:<br />• You wear protective clothing, and if working outdoors on your model in the summer be sure to use sunscreen and wear a broad brimmed hat to protect yourself from the sun. <br />• Treat accidental cuts and bruises immediately to avoid them getting infected. <br />• Don't sniff the glue... for too long. <br />• Make sure to clean and store all your model ship building tools and equipment in a safe place where they are easy to reach when you need them.<br /><br />Last Word<br />Retirement model ship building is a happy hobby that anybody can enjoy. Whether you choose other activities like growing fresh vegetables, or beautiful flowers, we know you will find model ship building to be an enjoyable way to spend your retirement years.<br />Above all, have fun and enjoy the ship model building experience. No matter what your children say to you today about your new hobby (best just to ignore them), they will appreciate your effort years from now.<br /><br />Let us know if you would like a list of published articles.<br /><br />TIME TO GET BACK INTO THE MAN CAVE!Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-3453125065684327552011-04-02T13:35:00.000-04:002011-04-02T13:37:39.802-04:00April 2011 NewsletterThe Build: As many of you know, I am currently building the Bounty from Artesania Latina. This is the one with the open side. Like any model builder, I felt that the kit was good but needed more detail. In addition to the latrine and plant room, I have added a workroom, carpentry shop, kitchen, sleeping quarters and stores. At the rate I’m going it looks like this will be a three year build instead of two years.<br /><br />Specials: Just in time for spring, Cast Your Anchor has dropped the price on a few Radio Control Boats. The Phantom regular price of $152.95 is now $119.95, the Top Speed 2 hull regularly $175.95 now only $129.95 and the Air Streak with a regular price of $479.95 is offered at $299.95. If you are in the mood for building a radio control boat try Midwest’s Fire Boat, regular price of $277.44, now only $199.95. And for the last time the Bluenose Plastic Model kit from HobbyCraft Canada regular price of $59.95, now only $39.95 while quantities last. <br /><br />Fittings: Cast Your Anchor has the best assortment of model ship fittings out there. Customers have told us that they come to us for the hard to find fitting. We like to think that if it’s out there we’ll be able to get it for you. Another service Cast Your Anchor provides is that we never cancel back orders unless instructed to by our customers. You’ll get your parts - it might just take awhile. <br /><br />Nautical Gifts: Check out our line of nautical gifts at www.castyouranchor.ca. Just in time for the new Pirates of the Caribbean movie, all of our pirate paraphernalia has been put on sale. Get something for that wee pirate in your family while you pick up your model ship. <br /><br /><br /><br />SUMMER CAN’T BE FAR OFF!Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-92022734669308595332011-01-17T16:05:00.000-05:002011-01-17T16:06:11.357-05:00January 2011 NewsletterShip Model Fittings: By now you may have noticed on our website the fittings from Modelbouw Shop in the Netherlands. We are currently handling their line of emergency lighting, deck lighting, fire extinguishers and life vests. These details will finish your modern model ship to perfection. <br /><br />Specials: Cast Your Anchor is pleased to offer the Artesania Latina Victory kit at a special price of $895.95. We only have 1 in stock so if you have always wanted to build Nelson’s flag ship, now’s the time. We also have 1 Microlux Tilting Arbor Table saw for $559.95 and a few other specials<br /><br />Industry News: Cast Your Anchor has sorted out its supply chain to the European manufacturer’s of model ship kits, tools and fittings. We have started to increase our inventory of the hard to get products. We are continually on the hunt for the best products in the market to help you make your ship model outstanding. <br /><br />Bluenose II: Cast Your Anchor has a few pieces of the Bluenose II hull left. These pieces are mounted on a base and authenticated by the Bluenose II Preservation Trust. In 1995, the Bluenose II Preservation Trust retrofitted some of the famous schooner. Contact Cast Your Anchor to see how you too can own a piece of true Canadian history.<br /><br /><br /><br />KEEP WARM THIS WINTER AND BUILD A MODEL SHIP IN YOUR MAN CAVE!Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-72210783908508436722010-12-01T09:16:00.001-05:002010-12-01T09:18:13.816-05:00December 2010 NewsletterDecember 2010 Newsletter <br /><br />Ship Model Fittings: Did you see our shipping cost comparison blog? To recap, if you order up to 10 fittings packages from Cast Your Anchor, you will pay $4.50CAD for shipping. If you order the same fitting from our competitor in the US, you’ll pay $38.99US. This is not a joke! <br /><br />Building the Bounty: As the build proceeds, some of my favourite tools are the diamond coated files (41044), the 45 degree curved micro tweezers (42018) and the mini square (45021). And OK – although I preach using Titebond wood glue for all wood to wood bonding, you can’t beat CA glue when you get tired of being a clamp! Point taken.<br />I have converted the wooden pails they include in the Artesania Latina kit to copper pots and even inserted some plant like material. I have also added oars and sails to the Jolly boat. <br /><br />Industry News: We continue to struggle with the collapse of the North American ship model manufacturer’s distributorship. Please allow plenty of time should you wish one of the Mantua model kits like the Sovereign of the Seas or the Soleil Royale.<br /><br />HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL OF OUR FRIENDS FROM THE STAFF AND MASCOT OF CAST YOUR ANCHORWrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-36728565451508055062010-11-15T13:40:00.002-05:002010-11-15T14:00:52.861-05:00Shipping Costs into CanadaAs many of you know, Cast your Anchor is Canada’s only marine hobby store specializing in ship models, boat kits, radio control sail and powerboats, tools, fittings and accessories all under one roof.<br /> <br />We have recently read that many ship model hobbyists are complaining about the cost of shipping ship model products into Canada from the USA. <br /><br />So here's a comparison<br /><br />Shipping cost for up to ten fittings<br />Competitor cost $38.99 Cast Your Anchor cost $4.50<br /><br />Shipping cost for most tools<br />Competitor cost $42.88 Cast Your Anchor cost $17.50<br /><br />Shipping cost for a medium size ship model kit<br />Competitor cost $47.99 Cast Your Anchor cost $26.50<br /><br />Shipping cost for a large ship model kit<br />Competitor cost $53.99 Cast Your Anchor cost $38.50<br /><br />There have also been complaints about shipping a few items in a large box which would add to the cost of shipping. At Cast Your Anchor, all shipping vessels match the size of the product. In other words our customers don’t pay to ship air!<br /><br />And lastly, you’ll notice that our shipping costs are on the splash page not buried inside of our website. At Cast Your Anchor you know what your total cost to purchase a product is right up front.Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-69254596657034884602010-11-06T16:40:00.001-04:002010-11-06T16:40:55.517-04:00November 2010 NewsletterShip Model Fittings: Cast Your Anchor, North America’s only nautical hobby store specializing in the ship model hobby has agreed to distribute modern model scale ship fittings manufactured by Modelbouw Shop in the Netherlands. <br /><br />This line of modern model scale ship fittings augments the lines manufactured by RB Models from Poland, Amati and Mantua from Italy and Bluejacket from the USA. <br />The Modelbouw line includes modern model scale ship fittings such as deck lamps, emergency lighting, loudspeakers, life vests, oil drums, fire extinguishers, radars, control panels and much much more realistic scaled fittings.<br /><br />Industry News: We have received a number of enquiries concerning ship model kits from Mantua. As previously mentioned, there is no longer a North American distributor for Mantua. Cast your Anchor is able to purchase directly from Mantua but there is a lead time of about 2 months. Please keep this in mind when interested in one of their model ship kits. <br /><br />Specials: We have 1 Tilting Arbor Table Saw on sale. The MicroLux is more powerful, more accurate, and smoother running than any other saw its size. And its the worlds first variable speed table saw, so it will cut metal and plastic, as well as wood. This is, without a doubt, the most feature-packed machine ever designed for the scale modeler. Regularly: US$749.95 On Sale: US$559.95<br /><br />Feature Kit: CON80829 - Lady Smith Fishing Trawler. Manufacturer: Constructo, Vessel Type: Fishing Skill Level: Intermediate Model Type: Static - Plank on Bulkhead. Built in 1903, this trawler is a cross between the age of sail and the age of steam. Highly unusual kit, well outfitted by Constructo. This ship was skippered by John Wood RNR. Last seen being driven by gale towards Skokholm Island, disappeared off Milford Haven, believed foundered. Skipper and 8 ratings lost. Only two kits available at $199.95<br /><br /><br />….TIME TO GET BUILDING…..Wrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10245817.post-73668245917448006612010-10-23T10:33:00.001-04:002010-10-23T10:33:56.135-04:00Cast Your Anchor – Announces it’s New Model Ship Fittings Global E-CatalogueCast Your Anchor, North America’s only nautical hobby store specializing in the ship model hobby has produced a ship model fittings catalogue in email format. <br />The only catalogue available that specializes in ship model fittings from around the world dedicated to both modern and historical ship model makers. Represented are manufacturers from Great Britain, Poland, the Netherlands, Italy, Spain and the USA. <br />Cast Your Anchor offers only the most realistic and best quality model ship fittings found throughout the world for it’s customers. These fittings will add the finishing touches to a model ship. The detailing is unsurpassed. The catalogue will remain in electronic format because there are new parts added all the time. When the model makers at Cast Your Anchor discover new and exciting fittings, they get the information to the model makers as quickly as possible. <br />Come on out and visit us at our new location. And don’t forget to ask us for a copy of our new Model Ship Fittings E-Catalogue. <br /><br />Check out Cast Your Anchor’s new website; http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com. We specialize in the nautical hobby. <br /><br /><br />ABOUT CAST YOUR ANCHOR <br /><br />CAST YOUR ANCHOR is a one-of-a-kind hobby store focused on ship modeling. In addition to carrying the largest inventory of ship model kits, ship modeling tools and ship model fittings. We have experienced technicians to help answer any questions related to static or radio control model building. <br /><br />For further information: <br /><br />Wray Hodgson <br />Cast Your Anchor Inc. <br />416-686-8529 <br />4117 Lawrence Ave East <br />Toronto, Ontario, Canada <br />http://www.castyouranchorhobby.com <br /><br />Cast Your Anchor Hobby - the only hobby store specializing in ship models, radio control sail and power boats, tools, fittings all under one roof. Ship Model Kits, Ship Model Fittings, Ship Model Tools, Ship Model Plans, Ship Model Books, Radio ControlWrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05826812966127361159noreply@blogger.com0